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Nonotechnology

27 Feb 2024
by Sandra Jacobs

One sunscreen is not the same as the other. The application of nanotechnology in particular causes a lot of confusion and discussions. What do we think about it?

In the world of natural cosmetics, there is a fine line between whether a product poses more or less risks to health. The composition or processing of certain raw materials in formulas can ensure that a certain product moves from the risk-free category to a risky category. For sunscreen products, the limit is clearly determined by whether or not silicone-coated nanoparticles are incorporated into the product and the different types of filters.

White haze on your skin
Natural sunscreens use mineral-based UV filters. They form a thin layer over the skin that reflects harmful UV rays. These products often contain titanium dioxide or zinc oxide. These protective substances cause a white haze to appear on the skin. The product adheres to the skin and does not penetrate it. The clearer the haze is visible after the skin has been applied, the better the protective effect of the product.

Nanoparticles
A number of raw materials in cosmetic products are sometimes processed via nanotechnology. This is the chemical technique that cuts larger parts into smaller particles on the order of nanometers. A nanometer, abbreviated nm, is equal to one billionth of a meter. The term “nanotechnology” was defined in 1974 by Norio Taniguchi of Tokyo Science University as the processing, separation, capture and deformation of materials by manipulating an atom or molecule.

Nanotechnology is widely used in sunscreen products to eliminate the white cast. When particles of zinc and titanium dioxide are split and made smaller than 100 nm and more than half of the substance consists of these particles, the term 'nano' is added. This nano zinc dioxide and nano titanium dioxide are suitable as a UV filter and do not leave a white cast on the skin. The particles are so small that they no longer adhere to the skin, but there is a good chance that they will pass through the skin and enter the bloodstream. With all the associated health risks.

Coatings
Some cosmetic brands combine nanotechnology with the formation of a coating layer around each nanoparticle of zinc or titanium dioxide. Coatings around nanoparticles help to partly prevent the formation of free radicals. In addition, a coating layer ensures that nanoparticles increase in size. As a result, manufacturers have found a way to circumvent the obligation to mention 'nano' as a raw material on the label. In other words: there are nanoparticles in a certain product, but this is not always communicated to the consumer.

And there are even more dubious effects to mention. Coated nanoparticles can be harmful in combination with sunlight. The enlarged size of the particles thanks to the shell ensures that the active substance still adheres to the skin. At least, if you don't sweat or go into the pool or sea. The coating around a nanoparticle is usually silicone or alumina. These substances dissolve in water. You probably already feel it in your water: while sunbathing or bathing, the coating layer melts like snow in the sun. What remains is the nanoparticle, which still makes its way through your skin in its original size. You're back to square one.

Non-nano
At MinkBC we pretend as much as possible not to use nanotechnology in cosmetics. Non-nano, uncoated zinc oxide is completely safe for use and an excellent ingredient for homemade, natural sunscreens. It provides broad-spectrum protection against UVA and UVB radiation and you can easily make a sunscreen with a high SPF with zinc oxide.

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